My close friends tell me I need to stop telling you about Nozawa Onsen. Since our first visit in 2019, its popularity continues to grow, with thousands of other visitors including more than a few celebrities falling for the charm of this Japanese village and ski resort.
However.
I am a lot of things but I’m not a gatekeeper.
We’ve just returned from our third visit to Nozawa Onsen and have already rebooked for 2027. In many ways each visit feels like coming home, returning to holiday where you’re familiar with all that’s on offer. But it’s more than that. Despite the growing number of visitors to this village in the Nagano prefecture, Nozawa retains all the charm we experienced on our first visit.
It’s not as big as its Nagano neighbour Hakuba, nor as flashy as Niseko in Japan’s north. Nozawa Onsen is a working small Japanese village famous for its narrow lanes (the pathways are heated and snow-free thanks to the hot springs), community-run public bath houses or onsens and the ogama or cooking onsen where locals still go each day to cook food.
Its population of about 3500 swells to thousands more during the peak snow season which runs from late December to the end of February. The busiest time is January, coinciding with Australian school holidays and Japanese national holidays.
This was our first time visiting in February and in the last week of the high season. Apart from arriving on a Japanese public holiday weekend, the balance of the week was significantly less crowded than we’d experienced in January. We did, however, have unseasonably warm weather (up to 10 degrees above average) and no fresh snow. The 205cm base depth of snow on the mountain ensured all runs were open which actually wasn’t the case on our last trip in early January 2024. Yes, no matter what type of holiday you’re booking and planning, the one thing you can’t control is the weather.
As a green run slow skier, I was just happy to be out and enjoying the bluebird days, sans jacket!
What to do in Nozawa Onsen when not on the slopes
Eat. Drink. Relax and repeat.
You’re probably not going to choose Nozawa if you you’re a 20-year-old looking for pumping nightlife but as grown adults, there are so many apres drinking and early dinner options to suit all budgets and tastes. We mostly sought out and ate Japanese food, enjoying everything, from $12 ramen through to a $140 per person chef’s teppanyaki omakase. Because of the layout of the village, most venues (except those on the mountain) are within 10-15 minutes walk from each other and most located in the centre of the village itself.
Tips
- Some restaurants offer online (via the TableCheck app) or email booking and it’s wise to book ahead, particularly in busy times and/or you’re travelling in a large group. Choices are more limited for large groups as many restaurants are tiny.
- For restaurants you can’t book ahead, seek them out when in Nozawa and try for a walk-in or ask in person to book on another night.
- Generally restaurants will offer two sittings – 5.30 or 6pm and 7.30pm or 8pm.
- Since our first visit, most venues now take card. Some offer a discount for cash.
Bars visited and recommend
Steinwerkz – located near the main gondola, this was our first stop for a mulled wine or espresso martini on the way back to our accommodation
Nozawa Onsen Gin Distillery – a magnificent working distillery offering very good gin, cocktails and bar snacks. We always bring some home with us
Guruguru – a fun bar located in the centre of the village
Chitto Sake Bar – a new bar on the main street leading out of the village centre on the way towards the Swiss Bakery, intimate and fun
Tone Cocktail Bar – also new and something you’d otherwise expect to stumble across in a laneway in Tokyo. Kazu the owner and mixologist has curated a cocktail menu that begs a return visit. It’s tucked away above the main centre. We walked down a path from the Neo Bar to find it.
Cafes and restaurants visited and recommend
Tanuki cafe – part of the Tanuki group of accommodation, store (where we buy our souvenirs), restaurants and bar, this is a great place for breakfast, lunch or dinner.
Tanuki teppanyaki – with only 14 seats and two sittings each night, this is in demand. Book as far ahead as you can for a wonderful omakase experience. We loved every course.
Haus St Anton – famous for the hot steamed buns served outside on the street, coffee and cafe but now has a degustation dinner offering in the hotel where chef Ken Katagiri crafts an exquisite menu putting local produce front and centre. Book ahead for this one.
Swiss Bakery Pizzeria – Kyoko and Gab Sutter offer coffee and Swiss-style bread and pastries by day and pizzas by night. Book ahead, particularly if you have a larger group or want to eat outside in the gondola car. You can also order takeaway pizzas.
Wanryu Ramen – located down a side street in the centre of town, we return here for good value, freshly prepared tasty ramen and gyoza. Walk-ins only so try your luck.
Hamacho Sushi – also one we return to every visit for an authentic Japanese sushi offering. There are two seating times and you need to book a set share menu. It’s next door to Wanryu Ramen, so pop your head in when in town to make a booking or chance a walk in.
Tonkichi – another restaurant we return to for okonomiyaki (Japanese savoury pancakes) and yakisoba. Some seating is Japanese style on the floor; others at the bar or tables. You’ll need to book ahead for this one, usually phoning in the afternoon. You have to choose a set menu (equivalent of about $23AUD) that includes a starter, side, main and non-alcoholic drink.
Neo Bar – located not far from the main gondola, stop for apres yes but highly recommend booking dinner. Neo’s speciality is sukiyaki cooked in your own table top hot pot.
Popeyes – a magnet for Australians to stop while up on the mountain, offering coffee, burgers and parmies. A great spot for a lunch time drink outside on a bluebird day. Find it to the right half way down the Paradise run.
Buna – also on Paradise and an institution on the mountain for good value Japanese food. I love the teriyaki chicken don or choose one of the many great curry topping options.
Hakugin – next to Buna on the Paradise run this Japanese menu is a little larger than Buna and offers more outside seating.
For more Nozawa Onsen restaurant options, click HERE and HERE.
Where to stay in Nozawa
Accommodation is limited because of the size of the village so is highly sought after in the high snow season. You might be lucky to score a last-minute booking if someone has cancelled but generally people are booking a year ahead of their visit. Different operators and properties will open their bookings up for the following snow season at different times and usually if someone is looking to rebook for the following year, they get first dibs.
We have booked with and stayed at properties managed by both Nozawa Onsen Holidays and Akari House and highly recommend the service and properties offered via both.
On this most recent trip as a group of two couples we stayed in a two-bedroom apartment within the Gondola Apartments complex. As the name suggests, it’s very close to the main gondola access to the mountain (100m walk) and the main part of the village is a 10-minute downhill/uphill walk away.
Previously we’ve stayed as a group of two families in Tamanegi House. It’s a two-level house where each family had separate accommodation. Getting on the mountain from here is a 400m walk to a chairlift from which you can ride and ski across to the main gondola. Walking into the main village is about 10 minutes along a flat snow-free path.
Where to hire snow gear
Your accommodation will offer assistance and connect you with the ski/snowboard rental business they work with. They will also help you with lift passes and lessons.
How to get to Nozawa Onsen
You have three options for getting from Tokyo to Nozawa Onsen. Driving a car is not recommended during the snow season due to heavy snowfall and limited parking.
- Catch a bullet train from Tokyo Station to Iiyama Station (1hr 40min) then a 20-minute bus ride to Nozawa Onsen. We usually do this at the beginning of our trip, having stayed in Tokyo for two nights. On landing at the airport from Australia, we send our large suitcases and snowboard bag on ahead to Nozawa via the Yamato baggage service. We then take carry-on only into Tokyo, making it easier to navigate train travel. As an FYI, the JR East website is not so user friendly for booking train tickets and you can only book tickets 30 days in advance. We book via Klook and they then secured the tickets when they came on sale 30 days out. Hot tip: book reserved seating if available.
- Catch the snow shuttle from Haneda or Narita airports. Details HERE. We usually catch the shuttle for the end of our trip and are more than happy just to sit back and relax for the six hours. You have a couple of stops along the way and it just makes for a stress-free first leg of your return home.
- Book a private transfer from Tokyo, Haneda or Narita. More HERE.
Travelled to Nozawa Onsen recently? Let us know below your favourite places to stay and eat.